■From friendly, passionate, knowledgeable cheesemongers who offer tastes and cut cheese to order.
■From places that display signs that indicate the names of the producers, the region it is from and the milk type.
■From places that source unique farmhouse and artisan cheese with a story to tell and who have a thoughtful selection that looks well cared for.
TRY Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder, Richmond; Milawa Cheese Company, Milawa and North Carlton; Leo's Fine Foods, Kew; Cornelius Cheese, Canterbury; Giant Steps, Healesville; Kitchen & Butcher, Healesville; De Bortoli, Steels Creek; Queen Victoria Market; accredited farmers' markets.
■Tightly wrapped in the wax paper or original packaging provided by your cheesemonger - not cling-film.
■In a plastic container in the fridge. The Decor Microsafe range is ideal - is has a steam vent to allow some air circulation and a tray so that you can fit a damp towel underneath if it needs more humidity.
■And buy small amounts regularly, rather than big pieces that end up drying out.
■Only after cheese has been allowed to sit at room temperature for at least an hour (this maximises flavour).
■With simple accompaniments that contrast or complement the flavours and textures of the cheeses. Try nuts, fruits, vegetables, cold meats, jams, jellies, relishes and chutneys - not just quince paste.
■With drinks other than wine. Try matching beers, ciders, champagnes, sake, whisky and even cocktails.
Source: Laurie Gutteridge